Baking cakes is not my forte. Following a recipe, word for word, ingredient for ingredient, quantity for quantity, I resist. I prefer to change things. Improve things. This doesn’t always work out well.
In contrast, cooking and fiddling around with savoury things, making it up as I go along, is easy. In my twenties, I spent an unhealthy amount of time watching Ready, Steady, Cook. That, coupled with a library of cook books, an excellent culinary pedigree (check out dad’s website!) and an insatiable
appetite for eating out, has left me with the ability to combine pretty much any bottom-of-the-fridge finds, in to something approximating a feast, on the night before the ASDA delivery is due. Witness this hot mackerel, beetroot and chicory salad with balsamic vinaigrette. Dee-lish, if I do say so myself.
Baking, however, is more challenging.
Things often go wrong when I bake. Nothing terribly disastrous (although I have on one occasion mistaken salt for sugar). I simply get distracted easily. And if I don’t have exactly the right ingredient, I tend to improvise. I use baking powder that’s past its use by date and has lost its fizz. I slop in more vanilla essence than recommended. I often don’t have the right power tool, cake tin, or oven temperature. These kinds of things you can get away with in the world of garlic, lime, chilli and ginger. In the world of self-raising flour, caster sugar and cup cake cases, it often doesn’t work.
I once used up six packets of butter in one afternoon, as it took me three attempts to make a chocolate fudge cake.
However, I am eager to harness the power of baking. People will do pretty much anything for cake. A couple of years ago, I was asked to canvas support for a Fairtrade coffee morning in Abbots Langley. People were scurrying about on their Saturday morning tasks, and my most winning smile failed to persuade them to drop into the village hall. Then I hit on a new opening gambit ‘Hello, can I just ask, do you like cake?’ They were putty in my hands.
My mother is an incredibly good baker (as those visiting the village hall will have experienced). She does not like to change things. She follows recipes assiduously, even savoury ones. She likes Delia. And measuring things accurately. I can see Delia’s strengths, and I have her Complete Cookery Course on my shelf as a reference tool, but I prefer the intuitive, Jamie-esque approach with his dollops, and sloshes, and glugs.
This doesn’t work for baking. And today it’s time for me to concentrate.
Keen to cement fledgling friendships with our new neighbours, I’ve extended invitations for Saturday afternoon tea and cake. Further motivation to bake comes in the form of a shiny new copy of the Hummingbird Bakery Cookbook (Christmas present from P, an exquisite example of self-interest). I want to make beautiful rows of pastel-frosted cupcakes.
Absolutely determined to do a good job, I select a recipe (vanilla cupcakes – the first cake in the book – I figure if it goes well I’ll work my way through the entire publication) and check ingredients (and sell by dates). Armed with a shopping list, I head into Summertown (our new neighbourhood – North Oxford, all frightfully tasteful dah-ling, boutiques, wine bars, a yoga school, people biking past with their toddler on the back, singing Wagner)(the cyclist, not the toddler, though I wouldn’t put it past them). I successfully forage in Co-op and treat myself to two little bottles of food colouring for doing the icing (blue and red – I figure I can make pink and purple).
In anticipation of this baking event, P and I have already excavated my Kenwood (cast off from my mother) and handblender, from maze of boxes in the garage. We’ve not quite finished unpacking.
I get home. I lay out my ingredients. I preheat the oven. I set out my cupcake cases. I fire up the Kenwood. I get stuck in. I pay full attention. I’m listening to Sheryl Crow (but not singing along). I feel confident.
Then, a hitch. My superduper digital scales (present from my mum, obviously) appear not to be working. The battery light is flashing. Not double A or triple A batteries of which we have a stockpile in the flat, but some kind of obscure weird lithium battery. Gah, I think. How am I going to measure properly? In the past, baking in foreign climes with no scales, I have converted weights to volumes and baked in the American-style using measuring cups. Despite my excellent maths skills, this often hasn’t worked so well. The practical ramifications of fractions of eggs are a challenge.
I take the batteries out, jiggle them around, and replace them. The battery warning light goes off. Splendid.
Feeling the pressure ever so slightly (neighbours coming round in two hours, weighing scales about to run out of juice) I push on.
I weigh out the dry ingredients and pop them in the Kenwood. I spent a good proportion of my childhood watching my mum feeding ingredients into this Kenwood (I think it was this Kenwood – might be another, or a cannibalistic combination, my dad’s an engineer in case he hasn’t already mentioned). It’s a magical beast with a powerful motor that mixes, and beats, and creams, and whisks, and helps my mum turn out a bounty of wondrous confections. My mum attributes her excellent baking to the Kenwood, but I know the credit is entirely hers. It’s pure skill on her part. I have found it perfectly possible to turn out lacklustre cakes using the Kenwood (even with my mother watching). Anyway, I’m going to concentrate this time, so it’ll work.
The Kenwood growls reassuringly as I switch it on, and while it chugs away I measure out the wet ingredients. There’s a small amount of phaffing as I need 120ml of milk, and my measuring jug is divided into increments of 50ml. I find my old American cup measures and they oblige. Meanwhile I haven’t noticed the blue smoke.
The Kenwood spontaneously stops. I notice the blue smoke. And the funny smell of burnt out motor. I don’t find it funny.
Luckily I have my electric handwhisk to hand. This is not a piece of kit countenanced by my mother. However, the Hummingbird Bakery Cookbook says it’s a valid alternative, so I press on.
I whisk the wet ingredients into the dry. Very soon, one of the whisky things gets wobbly. Unbelievable. A crucial plastic bit has disintegrated into the cake batter rendering the whisk properly knackered. And my cake batter is contaminated with bits of knackered whisk.
Consultation with P (who claims to be trying to have a snooze and complains of interruptions, but has left the door open so is therefore fair game, and seems to be enjoying my struggle in any case) suggests that domestic baking equipment may not have appreciated being subjected to subzero temperatures in our garage over Christmas. He also confirms that the bits of plastic that I’ve rescued from the cake batter all fit together snugly. We deduce the cake batter is no longer contaminated.
Ignoring any suggestion that ‘God’ doesn’t want me to bake this afternoon (and an offer to go and fetch some Mr Kipling’s), I press on. Almost as strong as my desire to change things, is my stubborness. People bake every freakin’ day of the week. It’s not rocket science. It will work.
I reach for my hand whisk and apply some elbow grease. It seems to be working. The batter (this is an American recipe – and produces a runny mixture, very different from the result of the British cream-together-butter-and-sugar-add-eggs-and-fold-in-flour approach beloved of Delia), is poured into the cases, popped into the oven and watched assiduously through the door. I do at least know not to open the door.
Meanwhile, I use more elbow grease to make butter frosting. I inhale a lot of icing sugar. And then, joy of joys. I break out my two bottles of food colouring. I remember what Nigella says about food colouring: be sparing, unless you cakes that look like they’ve been produced by Haribo (she didn’t say that exactly, as that doesn’t have a double entendre tenderly embedded within). I experiment with egg cupfuls of icing and teeny drops of food colouring persuaded off the end of a fork.
It’s tricky. Red and blue don’t necessarily make purple. They sometimes make maroon, or a very unappetising grey colour. Eventually I figure it out. I have three bowls of icing. Snowy white, baby pink and a fairly convincing lilac.
Despite the lack of power tools, the cakes have risen well (not as well as my mum’s obviously – she produces fairy cakes which look like little volcanoes on the top) and look beautiful golden brown. I’m still a little nervous that they are cooked through properly (I have not graduated to owning a skewer to test them and the results from a knife are inconclusive).
I potter for a bit and wait for the cakes to cool (icing warm cakes doesn’t work – I do learn from previous baking failures – doing the same thing and expecting a different result is the definition of insanity after all).
Once the cakes are ready, I slather on the icing and line them up in rows, a la
Hummingbird. I’m not sure my mum would approve of this American-style icing… too much sugar I suspect. As children, we would ice the volcanic fairy cakes with melted chocolate and sprinkle them with hundreds and thousands, and wait for the chocolate to solidify. I would then peel off the chocolate slab, eat the cake out of obligation, and then eat the chocolate, crunching hard into the hundreds and thousands.
P and I test one of cakes (the Mr Kipling route has not been entirely ruled out– I really do not want to serve up cakes to my neighbours and find they have soggy bottoms, ha).
It has worked! Bloody marvellous. Light, airy, soft. Different to the Delia-plus-my-mum-and-the-Kenwood’s version, I grant you. The crumb texture is very different using the batter method. But it’s all good.
The neighbours turn up punctually (such is the power of the cake), and pay compliments to the cake. I of course receive the compliments and say nothing of the back story (other than referring to the Hummingbird Bakery Book – it turns out there have been several cookery books received as Christmas presents in the building, and I anticipate some reciprocal cooking over the coming weeks).
Downplaying this afternoon’s achievements, I do perpetuate the myth some of us just throw together a batch of fairy cakes on a Saturday afternoon without turning a hair. Or burning out a motor. You know better.
